Modèle OZETTA
OVERSIZED SEASONS CARDIGAN DETAILS
The Seasons Cardigan is a vintage inspired cardigan with a classic stitch
design. It is worked top down and closed in the front with 4 buttons. The
button band is worked simultaneously with the rest of the body which means
less finishing work.
Sizes – XS (S) M (L) XL (2XL) 3XL (4XL) 5XL
Finished Bust Circumference – 38 (41) 431⁄2 (48) 53 (57) 60 (63) 671⁄2″/97
(104) 111 (122) 135 (145) 152 (160) 172 cm
Length – 21 (211⁄2) 22 (221⁄2) 23 (231⁄2) 241⁄2 (25) 251⁄2″/53 (55) 56 (57) 58
(60) 62 (64) 65 cm measured from mid back
Gauge – 15 sts and 30 rows = 4 x 4″/10 x 10 cm in half fisherman’s rib st on
5 mm (US Size 8) needles. Blocked. Note: because you are knitting your knit
sts into the row below, your row number will appear to be cut in half. This
means that, when you count 15 knit sts in a column, it will actually
encompass 30 rows
Needle Size – 4 mm (US Size 6) double pointed needles, 16″ and 32-40″
circular needles 5 mm (US Size 8) 16″ and 32-40″, or the required needles to
obtain gauge
Yarn – 967 (1068) 1121 (1184) 1308 (1423) 1526 (1592) 1663 yds
884 (977) 1025 (1083) 1196 (1301) 1395 (1456) 1521 m
400 (450) 500 (550) 550 (600) 650 (700) 700 g
Suggested Yarn – CaMarose Snefnug Worsted Weight (50 g = 120 yds) in
snehvid 7811 8 (9) 10 (11) 11 (12) 13 (14) 14 skeins
Buttons – Four measuring 3⁄4″ or 23mm
Notions – 8 stitch markers, scrap yarn or extra cable, tapestry needle
1 yeldemS yeliaH 0202© tnetnoc lla
Abbreviations
approx. – Approximately CO – Cast on
K – Knit
K1B – Knit 1 below
M1L – Make 1 left M1R – Make 1 right P – Purl
PM – Place Marker
RS – Right side
Slip (all slip sts will be slipped purlwise) SM – Slip Marker
STM – Stitch Marker
ST(S) – Stitch(es)
TBL – Through the back loop
WS – Wrong side
wyif – With yarn in front
approx. – Approximately CO – Cast on
K – Knit
K1B – Knit 1 below
M1L – Make 1 left M1R – Make 1 right P – Purl
PM – Place Marker
On Choosing Size
The Seasons Cardigan has around 7″/18 cm of positive ease built into the
pattern. Sizes XS (S) M (L) XL (2XL) 3XL (4XL) 5XL correspond to a bust
circumference of 30 (34) 36 (41) 46 (50) 53 (56) 60″/76 (87) 92 (104) 117 (127)
135 (142) 152 cm (the final size of garment will be an additional 7”/18 cm).
Note: half fisherman’s rib grows and stretches once blocked. The most
important element in achieving the correct and overall fit is knitting at the
correct gauge. Wash and block your swatch before beginning this project.
On Raglan Increases
Increases are worked on both sides of the raglan st so that they lean right
(M1R) or to the left (M1L). The raglan is a normal st worked in stockinette st
(i.e., it is worked as a normal knit stitch on the RS of the work and as a
normal purl on the WS of the work). Work the increases as follows, M1R –
insert the left hand needle under the bar formed by the stitch you just knit
and the stitch you’re about to knit from back to front and K normally (into the
front of the stitch). M1L – insert the left hand needle under the bar formed by
the stitch you just knit and the stitch you’re about to knit from front to back
and K TBL
Half Fisherman’s Rib Stitch
When working flat on your work’s RS, you will knit your knit sts in the row
below (K1B) and your P sts regularly. When working on your work’s WS, all
stitches are K regularly.
Row 1 (RS) – K1B, P1 repeat from – to the end of the row. Row 2 (WS) – K
all sts.
Repeat Rows 1 and 2.
Half Fisherman’s Rib Stitch in the Round (you will use this method while
working the sleeves)
Round 1 – K1B, P1 repeat from – to the end of the round. Round 2 – P all
sts.
Repeat Rounds 1 and 2.
Neckband (photo support on pages 9 and 10)
Right Side
With 4 mm needles, CO 11 sts using the long tail cast on method or the
provisional cast on method. Row 1 (RS) – K1 , P1, K1, repeat – until the
end of row.
Row 2 (WS) – Slip 1 wyif (edge stitch), K1, P1, repeat – until 2 sts remain,
K2.
Repeat Rows 1 and 2 until work measures approx. 5 (5) 5.5 (5.5) 6 (6) 6.5
(6.5) 6.5″/13 (13) 14 (14) 16 (16) 17 (17) 17 cm. End by working a WS row.
Your yarn is now opposite slipped st edge. Cut yarn and let sts rest.
Left Side
With RS facing, pick up 11 sts along the right piece cast on edge or
temporary edge if using provisional cast on with a new piece of yarn. Use the
shorter end of yarn to pick up sts and work from the slipped st edge to left.
The yarn you knit with is placed at the slipped st edge once the sts are
picked up. Push sts to the needle’s opposite end and start work here.
Row 1 (RS) – Slip 1 wyif (edge stitch), P1, K1, repeat – until end of row.
Row 2 (WS) – K1, K1, P1, repeat – until 2 sts remain, K2.
Repeat Rows 1 and 2 until work measures approx. 10 (10) 11 (11) 12 (12) 13
(13) 13″/26 (26) 28 (28) 32 (32) 33 (33) 33 cm. (Includes the right side of
neckband). End by working a RS row. Do not cut yarn. You will now pick up
sts along the neckband edge.
Yoke (video support on page 8 for picking up sts)
Keep the 11 sts from left side of neckband on your 4 mm double pointed
needles. With your working yarn that is still attached to neckband and 5 mm
needles, pick up and knit in 47 (47) 47 (51) 51 (55) 55 (55) 59 sts, with 4 mm
double pointed needles K1, P1, repeat – until 1 st remains, K1. =69 (69)
69 (73) 73 (77) 77 (77) 81 sts. You are ready to begin yoke.
Note: You will continue to slip first st purlwise with yarn held in front. Knit the
last st of the row on the button band.
(WS) – Slip 1 wyif, K1, P1, repeat – over 10 sts, P across body until 11 sts
remain, P1, K1, repeat – until 1 st remains, K1.
Yoke and Raglan Increases
When placing markers on the next step, the first and last st marker may fall
off due to the button band and yoke transition, include them on next RS row
if they will not stay on.
You will now begin half fisherman’s rib. Divide your work for raglan increases
as follows:
(RS) – 11 (11) 11 (11) 11 (11) 11 (11) 11 sts (left front), pm, K1 (raglan st), pm,
8 (8) 8 (8) 8 (8) 8 (8) 8 (left sleeve), pm, K1 (raglan st), pm, 27 (27) 27 (31) 31
(35) 35 (35) 39 (back), pm, K1 (raglan st), pm, 8 (8) 8 (8) 8 (8) 8 (8) 8 (right
sleeve), pm, K1 (raglan st), pm, 11 (11) 11 (11) 11 (11) 11 (11) 11 (right front).
Video support for Set Up Row on Ozettaknitwear.com, page 8 for password.
(WS) – Slip 1 wyif, K1, P1, repeat – over 10 sts, P raglan st, K across
sleeve sts, P raglan st, K across back sts, P raglan st, K across sleeve sts, P
raglan st, P1, K1, repeat – until 1 st remains, K1.
Work back and forth on yoke in half fisherman’s rib using 5 mm needles,
while the first and last 11 sts will be on 4 mm needles. You will work the
raglan increases on the RS as follows:
Slip 1 wyif, P1, K1, repeat – over 10 sts, work in half fisherman’s rib until you reach the raglan st, M1R, SM, K the raglan st, SM, M1L, repeat from –
4 times. 11 sts remain, K1, P1, repeat – until 1 st remains, K1. Video
support for Raglan Increases on Ozettaknitwear.com, page 8 for password.
Note: For the neatest result, continue working in half fisherman’s rib
mirroring the sts on each side of the raglans. Meaning, you will mirror each
side of your raglan sts as follows: K1B, raglan st, K1B. Or P, raglan st, P. This
will be repeated on each side of the 4 raglan increases.
Work your raglan increases on the RS rows a total of 22 (24) 26 (27) 27 (31)
34 (36) 35 times. At the same time increase next to the front button bands on
every 3rd RS row a total of 7 (8) 8 (9) 9 (10) 11 (12) 11 times as follows:
Slip 1 wyif, P1, K1, repeat – over 10 sts, M1L, work in half fisherman’s rib,
(with your raglan increases) until 11 sts remain, M1R, K1, P1, repeat – until
1 st remains, K1. Video support for Raglan Increases With Panel Increases
on Ozettaknitwear.com, page 8 for password.
Tip: Keep Track of Raglan and Front Panel Increases by marking them off on
a list. I suggest highlighting every 3rd RS round to ensure you don’t forget to
make your panel increases.
Sizes XS (S) M proceed to ***, end by working a WS row before separating
for the sleeves. Sizes (L) XL (2XL) 3XL (4XL) 5XL
Work the yoke with raglan increases on body only and not on the sleeves.
This means you will not add increases to the sleeves. You will work as
follows:
Slip 1 wyif, *P1, K1*, repeat *-* over 10 sts, *work in half fisherman’s rib until
you reach the raglan st, M1R, SM, K1 (raglan st), SM, work in half
fisherman’s rib across left sleeve, SM, K1 (raglan st), SM, M1L, work in half
fisherman’s rib across back, M1R, SM, K1 (raglan st), SM, work in half
fisherman’s rib across right sleeve, SM, K1 (raglan st), SM, M1L, work across
front in half fisherman’s rib, *K1, P1*, repeat *-* until 1 st remains, K1. (4 sts
were increased).
Repeat a total of (1) 4 (2) 1 (1) 4 time(s). At the same time increase next to the
front button bands on the (0) 3rd (2nd) 0 (0) 1st and 4th RS row as follows,
Slip 1 wyif, P1, K1, repeat – over 10 sts, M1L, work in half fisherman’s rib,
(with your raglan increases at body only) until 11 sts remain, M1R, K1, P1,
repeat – until 1 st remains, K1.
End by working a WS row before separating for the sleeves.
***Your sts are as follows (including the button band): 40 (43) 45 (48) 52 (55)
57 (60) 63 (left front), 1 raglan st, 52 (56) 60 (62) 62 (70) 76 (80) 78 (left
sleeve), 1 raglan st, 71 (75) 79 (87) 93 (101) 105 (109) 117 (back), 1 raglan st,
52 (56) 60 (62) 62 (70) 76 (80) 78 (right sleeve), 1 raglan st, 40 (43) 45 (48) 52
(55) 57 (60) 63 (right front). = 259 (277) 293 (311) 325 (355) 375 (393) 403 sts.
The 4 raglan sts are divided evenly into front and back. You will maintain the
half fisherman’s rib when distributing the raglan sts into body. When you
work the raglan sts on the next step, look at your st following the raglan. This
will determine what your raglan st will be. Note: If you are unable to maintain
your st pattern at underarm, cast on an additional st.
(RS) – Slip 1 wyif, *P1, K1*, repeat *-* over 10 sts, work in half fisherman’s rib
across left front, remove marker, work raglan st as a K1B or P, remove
marker, place 52 (56) 60 (62) 62 (70) 76 (80) 78 sts (left sleeve) on cable or
scrap yarn, remove marker, CO 4 (6) 6 (6) 10 (10) 10 (12) 14 sts at armhole
opening using backwards loop cast on method, work raglan st as a K1B or P,
remove marker, work in half fisherman’s rib across back, remove marker,
work raglan st as a K1B or P, remove marker, place 52 (56) 60 (62) 62 (70) 76
(80) 78 sts (right sleeve) on cable or scrap yarn, remove marker, CO 4 (6) 6 (6)
10 (10) 10 (12) 14 sts at armhole opening using backwards loop cast on
method, work raglan st as a K1B or P, remove marker, work in half
fisherman’s rib across right front until 11 sts remain, K1, P1, repeat – until
1 st remains, K1.
(WS) – Slip 1 wyif, K1, P1, repeat – over 10 sts, K across back until 11 sts
remain, P1, K1, repeat – until 1 st remains, K1. = 163 (177) 185 (199) 221
(235) 243 (257) 275 sts.
You will make a last increase on the RS next to the front button band a total
of 1 (0) 0 (1) 0 (1) 1 (0) 1 time as you did above but without raglan increases.
Work as follows,
(RS) – Slip 1 wyif, P1, K1, repeat – over 10 sts, M1L, work in in half
fisherman’s rib until 11 sts remain, M1R, K1, P1, repeat – until 1 st
remains, K1.
(WS) – Slip 1 wyif, K1, P1, repeat – over 10 sts, K across back until 11 sts
remain, P1, K1, repeat – until 1 st remains, K1. = 165 (177) 185 (201) 221
(237) 245 (257) 277 sts.
Body (video support for buttonholes on Ozettaknitwear.com, page 8 for
password)
Work 1”/3 cm back and forth in established pattern, ending with a WS row.
(RS) – Slip 1 wyif, P1, K1, repeat – over 10 sts, work in in half fisherman’s
rib until 11 sts remain, K1, P1, repeat – over 4 sts, cast off 2 sts in pattern,
P1 K1, repeat – over 4 sts.
(WS) – Slip 1 wyif, K1, P1, repeat – over 4 sts, cast on 2 sts using the
knitted on cast on method over the sts you cast off, K1, P1, repeat – over
4 sts, K until 11 sts remain, P1, K1, repeat – until 1 st remains, K1. Tip
Place a marker to indicate where your button will later be sewn on opposite
the buttonhole side.
Work 4”/10 cm (28 button band rows) back and forth in established pattern and repeat the buttonhole as described above on rows 29 and 30. Repeat *-
- 2 times. You now have 2 and 3 buttonholes.
Work 2”/5 cm (15 button band rows) back and forth in established pattern.
End by working a RS row.
(WS) – With 4 mm needles 32-40″, Slip 1 wyif, K1, P1, repeat – over 10
sts, K1, P1, repeat – until 11 sts remain, P1, K1, repeat – until 1 st
remains, K1.
Hem (video support on page 8 for sewn tubular cast off)
Continue knitting in rib with 4 mm needles over all sts.
(RS) – Slip 1 wyif, K1, P1, repeat – until 1 st remains, K1. Continue
working in rib until hem measures 2”/5 cm (12 rows), work the last
buttonhole in the rib band as described above on rows 13 and 14. You now
have 4 buttonholes.
Work an additional 2”/5 cm (14 rows) in rib. Cast off on a RS row by using
the sewn tubular cast off method or your favorite cast off technique. If you
use the sewn tubular cast off method, your first st is a slipped st, work this st
as if it were a K st in the first step of the sewn tubular cast off.
Sleeves (photo support on page 11 and video support on sleeve
decreases on Ozettaknitwear.com, page 8 for password)
The sleeves are worked in half fisherman’s rib in the round on 5 mm circular
needles. (See half fisherman’s rib in the round on page 2).
Put resting sleeve sts back on the 5 mm needles.
Pick up and K in the 4 (6) 6 (6) 10 (10) 10 (12) 14 sts you cast on under the
sleeve. =56 (62) 66 (68) 72 (80) 86 (92) 92 sts. If you had to cast on an
additional st at underarm to maintain pattern, cast off the extra st after sts
are picked up by k2tog.
Place a st marker in the middle of the new sts to indicate beginning of round.
Your first st must be a purl to maintain an even decrease design. Find the
middle of your cast on sts and let the first st of the round begin with a purl.
Work in the round in half fisherman’s rib while at the same time work
decreases on every 31 (21) 21 (17) 15 (13) 11 (11) 11 rounds a total of 4 (5) 6
(7) 8 (9) 10 (11) 11 times. Remember: because you are knitting your knit sts
into the row below, your row number will appear to be cut in half. This means
that, if you count 10 knit sts in a column, it will actually encompass 20
rounds. (See photo on page 11 on how to determine round count).
You will maintain the half fisherman’s rib pattern by decreasing 4 sts on a
K1B, P1 round. Work sleeve decrease rounds as follows:
Round 1
Step 1 – P1, insert right needle into third st on round below and K the three
sts on the left needle together (only going below in the third st, K through the
first two normally).
Step 2 – Work in half fisherman’s rib remainder of round until 3 sts remain.
Step 3 – Insert the right needle into round below as if to K and slip it from the
left needle. K the next two sts on the left needle together normally (i.e.
K2tog). Slip the st you slipped off that now look like 2 on the right needle
over the first st on the right needle over the first st. =48 (52) 56 (64) 68 (76) 82
(88) 88 sts.
Round 2
P round.
When sleeve measures 16″/41 cm from the underarm, or 3″/8 cm less than
your desired length you are now ready to begin the cuff.
After sleeve decreases have been made =40 (42) 42 (40) (40) (44) 46 (48) 48
sts remain. The last round before the cuff transition should be a K1B, P1
round.
Cuff (video support on page 8 for sewn tubular cast off)
With 4 mm needles, P1, K1, repeat – to end of round until ribbing
measures 3”/8 cm. Cast off by using the sewn tubular cast off method or
your favorite cast off technique.
Finishing
Sew buttons onto cardigan where you placed markers on the opposite side
from the buttonholes. Weave in all loose ends. Block cardigan. Wear forever.